In the remote village Thame village in the Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality, Nepal, where mountain peaks pierce the clouds and ancient traditions run as deep as the valleys, a young boy’s dreams were shaped by two legendary figures who would occasionally visit his school.
His father, Mingma Tsheri, known as a senior Sherpa sardar, was among the first professional Sherpa guides after Everest was opened to foreign mountaineers in 1950 and his brother Kami Rita Sherpa holds the world record for the most successful ascents of Mount Everest, with an astounding 30 summits.
That boy was Lakpa Rita Sherpa Rita Sherpa is no less accomplished , who would go on to become one of the most accomplished mountaineers in history, with 17 successful summits of Mount Everest to his name and holds the distinction of being the first Nepali to climb the “Seven Summits” – the highest peaks on every continent.
“I always want to climb that mountain since I was a kid,” Lakpa Rita Sherpa recalls of his earliest aspirations to climb Everest. His journey to becoming a mountaineering legend began in the modest classrooms of a school built by Sir Edmund Hillary in the 1960s, where the seeds of his future were planted during visits from Hillary himself and Tenzing Norgay.
These visits left an indelible mark on young Lhakpa’s imagination. As he remembers,
“Every three to four years, Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary used to visit the school while I was on the school. It was a big inspiration for me.”
The impact of these visits was so profound that students, including Lhakpa, would sing songs about Tenzing’s historic Everest climb. “When I was little, and by then I never met him, but when I met him when he visited our school, it was big surprise for us, and we were very honored.”
The Path to the Mountains
Lakpa’s first step into the world of mountaineering came in 1984 when he finished high school and secured a job with a Dutch expedition team through his uncle, who was the lead Sherpa. However, this initial foray into climbing proved challenging. “I didn’t do good on that expedition because I never had training beforehand,” he admits. “It was my first expedition, and they gave me one week training “
Despite this humble beginning, Lakpa’s determination never wavered. The inspiration from his childhood heroes continued to fuel his ambition. “When the news break up after Tenzing summit and there was a song about Tenzing on Radio Nepal, and then meeting of Tenzing and Edmund Hillary at our schools… when I was a kid, I always think that I will be following their footsteps one day.”
A Life in the Heights
Today, Lakpa Rita Sherpa’s climbing achievements read like a mountaineer’s dream resume. Beyond his 17 Everest summits, he has conquered Cho Oyu 13 times, Aconcagua 62 times, Denali 3 times, and Vinson 18 times. He became the first Sherpa to complete the Seven Summits challenge, climbing the highest peak on each continent. His expeditions have led more than 254 climbers to the summit of Everest alone.
But for Lakpa, mountaineering is more than just collecting summit badges. It’s a profound connection with nature and a test of human capabilities. As he explains,
“Mountaineering is one of the greatest sports to test yourself in an altitude where you are capable or not to do it, and also you will be in very beautiful environments, which is very uncommon in other kind of sports.”
The Spiritual Connection
One of the most striking aspects of Lakpa’s approach to climbing is his deep respect for the mountains, particularly Everest. This reverence is embodied in his summit ritual
We always respect Everest. We do a special ceremony before we step over her, and when I get to the summit, I always take a bow, I always take three times pointing to Everest saying that sorry I was stepping over you. There is some kind of relations between us and mountains.
This spiritual connection to the mountains is matched by his practical wisdom about the challenges and dangers of high-altitude climbing. “Climbing mountain is a very dangerous sport,” he acknowledges. “When you want to do this type of things, you should be training well. You need to prepare well, especially physically. You have to perform very well mentally, physically, and then a lot of technical things you need to know.”
Lessons from the Summit
Through his decades of experience, Lakpa has developed deep insights into what makes a successful mountaineer. He emphasizes the importance of patience, noting that “oftentimes in climbing mountains, you sometimes get stuck in one place for week and week because of the weather will not allow you.” He warns against overconfidence, which he sees as a common pitfall for many adventurers.
His advice extends beyond technical skills to encompass a holistic approach to mountain safety and environmental stewardship. He strongly advocates for the principles of “Leave No Trace” and emphasizes the importance of proper preparation, even for simple day hikes. “Even if you’re going for an hour or two hours hiking out of the town, out of the car driving zone, you probably need to have a lot of things to have which are called survival gear.”
A Legacy of Inspiration
Now based in the United States since 2000, Lakpa continues to guide and inspire others. His connection to his homeland remains strong, and he takes immense pride in his origins.
Telling people that I am from Nepal is very special, because Nepal is one of the most beautiful countries in the world, and people who live in Nepal are so kind and always happy
Lakpa Rita Sherpa
Now, he has founded Khangri Experience, where he works as an expedition leader and full-time mountain guide, leading expeditions across the globe, including Alaska, Antarctica, and South America. Through his work, Lakpa not only showcases his expertise but also promotes the values and spirit of his homeland, inspiring adventurers worldwide.
His perspective on progression in mountaineering is both wise and humble:
“You don’t have to do a lot of challenging stuff if you want to do challenging stuff then you need to practice more and more… you cannot get to your first floor of your home without using all those steps. You don’t want to jump all those steps, so go step by step.”
For Lakpa, every ascent of Everest remains unique and special. Every time is a different experience. Every time you have different people, every time you’re dealing with different routes, weather’s different, crew who are working with it. So every time is different and every time is more exciting.
Through his achievements and teachings, Lakpa Rita Sherpa has not only followed in the footsteps of his childhood heroes but has carved his own path in the snow, inspiring a new generation of climbers. His story stands as a testament to the power of dreams, determination, and deep respect for the mountains that have shaped his life.
Standing atop Everest for the first time, Lakpa felt the full circle of his journey. “I think there at the summit that I am standing there because of Tenzing and Hillary, which brought me up there and which I never forget.”
From a schoolboy singing songs about mountain climbers to becoming one of the most accomplished mountaineers in history, Lakpa Rita Sherpa’s journey continues to inspire those who dare to dream of reaching the world’s highest peaks.
