Twice to the Top: Sanu Sherpa’s Historic Double Ascent

Sanu Sherpa, born in 1975, is a Nepali mountaineer from the village of Makalu in the Sankhuwasabha district of Nepal. He is often called “Shaanudai” by the mountain community.

Sanu grew up in a large family with nine siblings. His early life was marked by poverty, and he initially worked as a herdman. In 2005, seeking better opportunities, he moved to Kathmandu with aspirations of becoming a climbing guide, a profession that promised both respect and financial stability.

He started his career in mountaineering as a porter, a role that allowed him to gain experience in the mountains while earning a living.

Sanu’s mountaineering journey began in earnest in 2006 when he led a team of Korean climbers to the summit of Cho Oyu (8,188 meters) on his first attempt. This success ignited his passion for climbing, and he quickly established himself in the field.

Over the years, he climbed all 14 eight-thousanders, achieving this milestone for the first time between 2006 and 2019. Notably, he became the 42nd person in the world to complete this feat.
He became the first person to climb all 14 of known as the eight-thousanders, not once but twice. His remarkable achievement was completed on July 21, 2022, when he summited Gasherbrum II (8,035 meters) in Pakistan.

Shanu Sherpa has achieved a world record by summiting all 14 peaks above 8,000 meters twice, completing a total of 40 ascents of 8,000-meter peaks, and climbing 53 times on 8,000-meter mountains throughout his career.

Sanu loves the mountains. He says they bring him peace. His success has also helped shine a light on Sherpas, the local climbers who often do the hardest work on expeditions but don’t always get the credit.

He views climbing as a way to honor his heritage and contribute to the recognition of Sherpas in the global mountaineering narrative.

From herding to climbing the world’s highest peaks twice over, Sanu Sherpa’s story shows what can happen when determination meets opportunity. He’s not just a climber he’s a symbol of what Sherpas can achieve.

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