Sirbaz Khan Scales Annapurna Without Oxygen
Renowned Pakistani mountaineer Sirbaz Khan on Monday etched his name in history once again by successfully summiting Mt. Annapurna (8,091m) in Nepal this time without using supplementary oxygen.
Sirbaz Khan’s second successful ascent of Annapurna, but what makes this climb truly remarkable is that he achieved it without oxygen support a feat attempted by only the most elite mountaineers in the world.
Confirming the news, his brother Shahbaz Khan told WENews English that Sirbaz, 38, reached the summit at approximately 10:50 AM PST.
With this achievement, Sirbaz has now become the first and only Pakistani climber to summit 13 of the world’s 14 highest peaks all above 8,000 metres without the use of bottled oxygen. The only remaining peak for Sirbaz in his historic “No-O2 14x8000m” quest is Kanchenjunga, the world’s third-highest mountain.
A Record Like No Other
Sirbaz’s mountaineering record is already legendary.
His latest climb cements his status as Pakistan’s most successful high-altitude climber. With 13 x no-oxygen eight-thousanders and two ascents of Annapurna under his belt.
His achievements stand unmatched in Pakistan’s mountaineering history.
“This is a proud moment for Pakistan,” said Sirbaz’s manager Saad Munawar. “We now pray for his safe descent to base camp so that the nation can fully celebrate this historic achievement.
A Climber of Extraordinary Grit
Sirbaz Khan hails from Aliabad, Hunza, in Gilgit-Baltistan, and began his climbing journey in 2017 with Nanga Parbat (8,126m).
His resume includes:
- 3x K2 summits (2018, 2022, 2024)
- 2x Everest summits (2021, 2024)
- 2x Annapurna summits (2021 with oxygen, 2025 without oxygen)
- No-O2 ascents of Broad Peak, Manaslu, Dhaulagiri, Gasherbrum-I & II, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, and now Annapurna
Sirbaz had earlier completed all 14 eight-thousanders in 2024 with the summit of Shishapangma but only Kanchenjunga remains to complete the rare milestone without supplementary oxygen.
The Final Frontier Awaits
Kanchenjunga (8,586m) in Nepal now remains the only unclimbed eight-thousander without oxygen for Sirbaz.
If successful, he will become one of very few climbers in history and the first Pakistani to summit all 14 x 8000m peaks without bottled oxygen.
