In the village of Dhudhkunda-8, Kerung, Solukhumbu, a young man’s destiny was shaped by the imposing peaks that guarded his childhood home.
This is the story of Gesman Tamang, whose remarkable journey from a humble porter to one of Nepal’s most accomplished mountaineers not only transformed his own life but opened new horizons for his community.
Breaking Ground for the Tamang Community
Born into the Tamang community, one of Nepal’s largest ethnic groups with a rich cultural heritage but historically limited representation in high-altitude mountaineering, Gesman’s achievements carry special significance. As the son of a farmer and grandson of a Gurkha soldier, his path to mountaineering was anything but traditional.
The significance of being the first person from the Tamang community in his village, Chimding, to summit Mount Everest cannot be overstated. In a field historically dominated by Sherpas, Gesman’s achievements have helped diversify Nepal’s mountaineering scene and inspire a new generation of climbers from various ethnic backgrounds.
An Unexpected Calling
Gesman’s journey began in 2005 when he started working as a porter at the age of 14.
I started working with trekking teams at 14, he recalled. At 20, I was hired as a cook. At 22, I became a high-altitude porter.
His early years involved countless hours traversing the challenging geographical features of the Himalayan foothills, building the foundation for what would become an exceptional climbing career.
The turning point in Gesman’s life came when he crossed the Thorong La pass. This experience awakened something deep within him – a connection to the mountains that would shape his entire future. “I feel I am born to be a mountaineer,” he often reflects, remembering his first encounter with the true challenges of mountains.
The First Steps to Success
His breakthrough moment came in 2016 when he summited his first 8,000-meter peak – Mount Everest. The experience proved transformative, accompanying a 72-year-old Chinese client.
I was just lucky that everything went well,” said Tamang. “On the way down, I was sent up again to help in a rescue. At the time, I had very little knowledge of how to climb a mountain except for some tips I’d had from an uncle. When I returned to Kathmandu, I knew I had to learn all I could about mountaineering. I immediately started training in climbing and mountain rescue.
A Legacy of Achievement and Rescue
Gesman quickly became known for his expertise in mountain rescue, particularly involving long-line operations. His remarkable rescue feats include a dramatic 2021 operation on Annapurna where, after summiting without supplementary oxygen, he immediately participated in a helicopter rescue of three Russian climbers from Camp 4. Despite a dangerous incident during the rescue that left him injured, he was back on another rescue mission on Dhaulagiri just days later.
His climbing achievements grew impressively, including notable work with Nirmal Purja’s Project Possible, where he guided on six 8,000-meter peaks: Annapurna, Kangchenjunga, K2, Cho Oyu, Manaslu, and Shishapangma. However, Gesman maintained his independence and vision, declining to join the winter K2 expedition to pursue his own goals.
Gesman’s climbing resume quickly grew to include some of the world’s most formidable peaks. He has summited Mount Everest five times, Manaslu twice (once without supplemental oxygen), and Annapurna twice (both times without supplemental oxygen).
His achievements extend to successful ascents of K2, Kanchenjunga, Shishapangma, and Cho Oyu, accumulating an impressive total of 13 summits above 8,000 meters and 25 summits between 6,000 and 8,000 meters.
What sets Gesman apart isn’t just the number of summits, but his approach to climbing. He believes that ascending without supplemental oxygen, despite the increased cold and fatigue, provides a deeper understanding of high-altitude challenges. This philosophy has shaped his identity as a mountaineer who prioritizes authentic experiences over easier alternatives.
Building a More Inclusive Future
As his reputation in the mountaineering community grew, Gesman became increasingly vocal about the challenges facing the expedition sector. He has consistently spoken out against favoritism and nepotism, which he believes prevent talented newcomers, especially those from non-traditional climbing communities, from accessing opportunities.
His advocacy extends to improving insurance coverage and support systems for climbers and porters, recognizing that better conditions would encourage more Nepalis, particularly from the Tamang community, to enter the field.
Gesman’s passion for mountains extends into the business realm through his own company, Ukalo Nepal. Drawing from his decade-plus experience in high-altitude mountaineering, he has successfully guided thousands of mountain enthusiasts to realize their climbing dreams. His company embodies his commitment to safety, environmental responsibility, and authentic mountain experiences.
Through his company, Ukalo Nepal, Gesman works to create a more inclusive mountaineering community. “I don’t want a company BRANDED, suitable only for a certain type of person. I want an inclusive company that welcomes anyone who wants to climb or trek in Nepal.
Digital Ambassador and Environmental Advocate
Beyond his physical achievements, Gesman has embraced the digital age through his YouTube channel, which has garnered over 200,000 subscribers and 104.7 million views.
His content not only showcases technical climbing but also highlights Nepal’s cultural heritage and natural beauty. He’s also become a vocal advocate for environmental conservation, particularly regarding the waste management crisis at high camps on Everest.
He has witnessed firsthand the effects of global warming on the Khumbu Icefall and has been outspoken about the waste management crisis at high camps on Everest.
You will find everything including food, tent, spoons, plates, and many more that is used during the expedition
He notes, highlighting the urgent need for better conservation practices.
Today, Gesman continues pursuing his goal of climbing all 14 eight-thousanders while advocating for better industry practices and increased inclusion.
His journey from porter to pioneering mountaineer serves as an inspiration, particularly to Tamang youth and other underrepresented communities. Through his ongoing work in mountaineering, rescue operations, and advocacy, Gesman shows that the path he’s created becomes wider and more accessible for those who follow in his footsteps.
His story represents more than personal achievement – it’s a story of how determination and courage can break traditional barriers and create new possibilities for future generations in Nepal’s mountaineering community.
