In a tiny village called Spital am Pyhrn in Upper Austria, a young girl’s destiny was shaped by the towering peaks that surrounded her home. Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, born in 1970, would go on to make history as the first woman to climb all fourteen 8,000-meter peaks without supplementary oxygen, but her journey began with simple Sunday walks to the mountains after church.
At just eight years old, Gerlinde found an unexpected mentor in her village priest, a passionate mountaineer who would conduct services wearing his climbing band under his priestly robes. “After blessing the people, we left the church towards the mountains,” she recalls. These early expeditions planted the seeds of what would become a lifelong devotion to the mountains, as the priest helped her recognize the profound beauty and significance of nature.
By age 13, she had already climbed Sturzhahn, a 2,025-meter peak in west-central Austria. But it was a lecture about K2 at age 16 that would change the course of her life. With just 100 Shillings (about 7 euros) borrowed from her father for the entrance fee, young Gerlinde attended a presentation about the world’s second-highest peak. That evening sparked a dream that would take decades to fulfill – to see K2 in person, and perhaps one day, to climb it.
“Mountains are not stadiums where I satisfy my ambition to achieve, they are the cathedrals where I practice my religion,”
Gerlinde has said, reflecting the spiritual connection she feels with the peaks she climbs.
Her preparation for high-altitude climbing was as remarkable as her achievements. While working as a nurse, she would wake at 3:00 AM to cycle 40 kilometers to the hospital, crossing a mountain pass, work 10-12 hour shifts, and cycle home again. On her days off, she devoted herself to climbing and ski touring, building the endurance and technical skills she would need for the challenges ahead.
At 23, Gerlinde started on her first 8,000-meter expedition to Broad Peak in Pakistan. The experience proved both enlightening and sobering. On that first expedition, she witnessed the death of a young Czech climber from high-altitude sickness, a tragic lesson in the mountains’ unforgiving nature. “This was a real shock for me,” she recalls. “I understood this is something really, really serious, and I have to take care and listen to my body.”
This early experience shaped her approach to mountaineering. She developed a deep respect for acclimatization and the importance of staying attuned to her body’s signals. In high altitude, she would drink 5-6 liters of liquid daily and carefully monitor any symptoms that might indicate altitude sickness.
Unlike many modern climbers, Gerlinde chose to climb without supplementary oxygen or high-altitude porters. “For me, it was from the very beginning very important that I do it without bottled oxygen and without help of high-altitude porters, only with my teammates together,” she explains. This purist approach made her achievements all the more remarkable.
Her journey wasn’t without setbacks and profound loss. In 2010, while attempting K2, she witnessed the death of Fredrik Ericsson, who fell more than 1,000 meters while climbing near her. The tragedy deeply affected her, and for a time, she questioned whether K2 would ever allow her to reach its summit. “This was the only time when I thought maybe K2 doesn’t want that I climb up to the summit, maybe it’s not allowed to me to climb the summit,” she reflects.
But perhaps her greatest source of inspiration came from an unexpected place – her grandmother, Matilda, who lived to be almost 99. “She was the only one in my family who really knew everything about the 8,000-meter peaks,” Gerlinde remembers. “She read books about them and knew all the names. She had a really very tough life but at the same time she was always very humble, very nice, and very happy with the very simple life she had.”
Finally, in 2011, after seven attempts, Gerlinde achieved her dream of summiting K2, becoming the first woman to complete all fourteen 8,000-meter peaks without supplementary oxygen.
The moment was profound
When I did the last steps, it’s difficult to still difficult for me to explain. I really could feel a very very deep silence inside and there was no more question, there was no more wish, there was no more doubts or fear, only a very deep silence and a really very deep gratitude.
Throughout her career, Gerlinde has maintained a philosophical approach to mountaineering. “Every peak has its own personality, and climbing it is not just about physical strength but understanding the mountain’s spirit,” she says.
Her success has helped change perceptions about women in high-altitude climbing, though she prefers not to dwell on gender distinctions
I never saw myself as a ‘female’ climber; I am just a climber. Gender should never be a limitation when pursuing your dreams.
Her accomplishments have earned her numerous accolades, including the prestigious ISPO Trophy in 2016. But perhaps her most significant achievement has been demonstrating that with proper preparation, respect for the mountains, and unwavering determination, seemingly impossible dreams can be realized.
Through meditation and countless hours spent in the world’s highest places, Gerlinde has developed a profound spiritual connection with the mountains. “I could more and more feel by the years that there is something much bigger than we are,” she reflects. “There’s a higher power and this is really an energy, a power from nature, from God, who supports me also.”
Today, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner’s legacy extends far beyond her climbing achievements. She has become an inspiration for future generations of climbers, regardless of gender, showing that with proper preparation, respect for the mountains, and unwavering determination, even the most ambitious dreams can be achieved.
She is deeply moved, inspired, and energized by collaborating with people. Inner enthusiasm, dedication, gratitude, and a mindful, respectful, and loving approach to nature and all living beings are the cornerstones of her life.
Through lectures and seminars, she shares her experiences, adventures, and insights. In doing so, Gerlinde has inspired countless people from diverse cultures, religions, and social backgrounds for many years.
Gerlinde’s journey wasn’t just about reaching summits – it was about finding a deeper connection with the mountains and herself. As she often reminds us, “The summit starts at the highest point but ends only when you’re back with your teammates safe and sound.”
