David Göttler: The Pure Alpinist: From the Alps to Eight-Thousanders
In the world of high-altitude mountaineering, where the line between life and death can be measured in mere breaths, David Göttler stands apart.
The 46-year-old German alpinist has made it his mission to climb the world’s highest peaks in what many consider the most challenging way possible: without supplemental oxygen, without the support of Sherpas, and carrying his own gear. It’s a style that harks back to the golden age of mountaineering, when climbers relied purely on their physical strength, mental fortitude, and respect for the mountain.
The Making of a Mountaineer
David’s story begins in Munich, Germany, where he grew up in the shadow of the Alps. His father, himself a climber, introduced seven-year-old David to the vertical world, taking him on multi-pitch climbing adventures in the mountains near their home. But it wasn’t just the climbing that shaped David’s character – it was the family’s approach to adventure itself.
The turning point came when David joined the Alpine Club’s youth expedition squad. It was there that he first learned about the profession of mountain guiding a career path that seemed to perfectly align with his passions. After graduating high school, instead of heading to university to study mathematics and physics as he had considered, David chose to pursue professional training as a state-certified mountain and ski guide.
“Many people have asked me what’s my real job besides mountain guiding,” David explains. “But that job was enough for me, and it’s an incredibly demanding one.”
The Evolution of an Alpinist
David’s mountaineering journey progressed methodically from the Alps to the greater ranges of the world. His first major expedition took him to Patagonia, followed by challenging trips to the Garhwal Himalayas in India. These early experiences taught him valuable lessons about preparation, risk management, and the importance of learning from failure.
In 2003, at the age of 24, David set his sights on his first 8,000-meter peak: Kangchenjunga, the world’s third-highest mountain. The expedition was unsuccessful due to relentless winds, but the experience left an indelible mark on David. The immense face of ice, snow, and rock became fixed in his mind as a goal for future years.
What followed was a systematic steps on the world’s highest peaks, all climbed without supplemental oxygen. In 2006, he summited Gasherbrum II (8,035m), followed by Broad Peak (8,051m) in 2007, Dhaulagiri (8,167m) in 2008, Lhotse (8,516m) in 2009, and Makalu (8,481m) in 2013. Each summit represented not just a personal achievement but a testament to his commitment to climbing in the purest style possible.
The Everest Obsession
While David had already proven himself on five 8,000-meter peaks, Mount Everest remained his white whale. The world’s highest mountain had turned him back twice in 2019 at 8,650 meters and again in 2021 when he abandoned his attempt with renowned ultrarunner Kilian Jornet just below the South Col.
The 2022 attempt was different. David had learned from his previous failures and refined his approach. He started his summit bid on May 19th from Everest Base Camp, moving to Camp 3 to avoid the heat and sun. The next morning, he continued to Camp 4, where he rested briefly before setting off for the summit at 9:30 PM.
What followed was a grueling 12 hours and 20 minutes of climbing through the death zone. But this time, David found himself in a flow state, alone on the summit ridge and completely by himself on the top of the world. The weather was perfect – almost no wind and warm enough that he only needed thin gloves.
“It was surreal and magical,” David describes the moment. “I was incredible lucky because I found myself in between a few other parties. So I was completely alone on the summit ridge and in particular on the summit.”
The descent was equally challenging. David knew that reaching the summit was only half the journey, and the technical sections on the way down required complete focus. He made it back to Camp 3 the same day, spending the night there before descending all the way to Base Camp the following day.
The Philosophy of Pure Alpinism
For David, the concept of “fair means” in mountaineering is central to his identity as a climber.
“For me, ‘by fair means’ is mainly no supplementary oxygen, because that’s the main difficulty on an 8,000-meter peak,” he explains. “I always want to climb a mountain without artificial oxygen. Furthermore, I want to carry my own gear, because I want to be independent on the mountain.”
This philosophy extends beyond just the technical aspects of climbing. David believes that using supplemental oxygen is tantamount to cheating, particularly for professional mountaineers. It’s not about being elitist it’s about experiencing the mountain as nature intended, with all its challenges and dangers.
The mental aspect of high-altitude climbing without oxygen cannot be overstated. “The higher you go, the more it turns into a mental matter,” David notes. “When doing extreme mountaineering, you are almost constantly in a dialogue with yourself and motivate yourself for every single step.”
Speed and Style
One of David’s most impressive achievements came in 2017 when he and Italian climber Hervé Barmasse climbed the southwest face of Tibet’s Shishapangma in just 13 hours. This 2,200-meter ascent in pure alpine style was what David calls “an exercise in seeing what I’m capable of.” The achievement opened his eyes to new possibilities and future goals.
“Knowing that I can climb a 2,000-meter face up an 8,000-meter peak in one day opens up more possibilities, dreams and future goals,” David reflects. This fast and light approach has become his signature style, allowing him to tackle challenging routes with minimal equipment and maximum efficiency.
Learning from Failure
Perhaps what sets David apart from many other elite climbers is his healthy relationship with failure. He doesn’t view unsuccessful attempts as defeats but as essential learning experiences.
“For me, ‘successful’ means having learned something new,” David explains. “It’s certainly not just the arrival at the summit that counts. As long as I learn something and the process is actively reflected on and accepted, then I would consider it a success.”
This philosophy has served him well throughout his career. His failed attempts on Everest in 2019 and 2021 provided crucial information that ultimately led to his successful summit in 2022. Each setback taught him something new about acclimatization, weather patterns, and his own physical and mental limits.
Recent Achievements
David’s commitment to pushing boundaries continues. In 2025, he successfully summited Nanga Parbat via the demanding Schell route, which he describes as “a highlight of my mountaineering career.” This ascent demonstrated that even after decades of climbing, David continues to seek out new challenges and test his limits.
Throughout his career, David has also accomplished impressive winter ascents of the north faces of the Eiger, Grand Jorasses, and Matterhorn – routes that are considered among the most challenging in the Alps.
The Future
Now in his mid-40s, David shows no signs of slowing down. He continues to work as an IFMGA mountain guide, splitting his time between Northern Spain, Chamonix, and the Himalayas. His approach to mountaineering remains unchanged – seeking out the most challenging routes and climbing them in the purest style possible.
David’s story is ultimately one of dedication, patience, and respect for the mountains. In an era where social media often drives mountaineering decisions and where commercial expeditions dominate the highest peaks, David represents a different path – one that prioritizes the experience over the outcome and values the journey as much as the destination.
His advice to aspiring mountaineers is simple “The perfect adventure means stepping out of your comfort zone. Everyone can look for something which gives you that tingling feeling in your stomach.” Whether it’s sleeping outside for the first time or attempting an 8,000-meter peak without oxygen, David believes that adventure is about pushing personal boundaries and learning from every experience.
In the world of high-altitude mountaineering, David Göttler stands as a reminder that the mountains are not there to be summited but to be experienced, respected, and learned from. His approach may not be the easiest or the safest, but it represents the purest form of alpinism one climber, one mountain, and the eternal dialogue between human ambition and natural forces.
