The Sherpas of Darjeeling, originally migrants from Nepal’s Khumbu region, have played a Important role in promoting the Himalayas, often at great personal risk and with little recognition.
In Early 1900’s Darjeeling emerged as the base for major Himalayan expeditions, especially attempts on Mount Everest. In 1907 Dr. A.M. Kellas took high-altitude porters from Darjeeling to the Sikkim Himalaya.
This marked the beginning of a new era for the Sherpa community, transforming them from farmers and traders into essential members of mountaineering expeditions. In 1920s-1930s Darjeeling became the recruitment center for porters and climbers for expeditions to the Himalaya, including attempts on Everest from the Tibetan side.
In 1928 The Himalayan Club was founded, with its most active cell in Darjeeling, further solidifying the town’s importance in mountaineering. Later in 1934 Introduction of “chit books” for Sherpas, recording their expedition experiences and performance.
In 1939, the Himalayan Club instituted the prestigious Tiger Medal to honor exceptional Sherpa climbers. This recognition was a significant step in acknowledging the role Sherpas played in mountaineering expeditions.
The crowning moment for Darjeeling’s Sherpa community came in 1953 when Tenzing Norgay, along with Edmund Hillary, became the first to summit Mount Everest. This achievement not only brought worldwide recognition to the Sherpas but also led to the establishment of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute in Darjeeling, aimed at training more climbers.
Other notable Sherpa climbers from this era include:
Nawang Gombu: Tenzing’s nephew, who was part of the 1953 Everest expedition.
Nawang Topgay: Known as “Guruji,” he was one of the youngest porters to reach South Col on the 1953 Everest expedition.
Da Namgyal: One of only three Sherpas to press upwards of South Col on Everest in 1953.
As Nepal opened its borders to foreigners in the 1960s, the focus of Himalayan expeditions gradually shifted away from Darjeeling. This change had a profound impact on the Darjeeling Sherpa community, with many struggling to adapt to the new reality.
As we look back on this rich history, it’s clear that the Sherpas of Darjeeling have left an indelible mark on the world of mountaineering. Their story is one of courage, adaptability, and commitment to the mountains they call home.
