Few names aroused as much admiration and regard in Russia’s climbing community as Nadezhda “Nadya” Oleneva’s.
A passionate climber whose journey began in the peaks of the Bezengi Caucasus during her college years, Oleneva would go on to become one of Russia’s most accomplished female mountaineers before her tragic passing on Dhaulagiri in 2023.
Early Years and Passion for Climbing
Nadya’s story began in Perm, Russia, where a seemingly routine college mountaineering trip would alter the course of her life forever.
The majesty of the Bezengi Caucasus cast its spell on the young climber, who later recalled being completely “hooked on the mountains” from those very first days.
What struck those who knew her then was her pure appreciation for the sport’s simplicity – the straightforward yet challenging goal of reaching a summit.
Rise in the Climbing Community
Over nearly two decades, Oleneva transformed from an enthusiastic novice into one of Russia’s leading female alpinists. Her technical prowess and determination earned her the prestigious title of Master of Sports of Russia in mountaineering, but it was her groundbreaking ascents that truly set her apart. In 2019,
she achieved the first ascent of Sharp Peak in Kyrgyzstan, a climb dedicated to the memory of a fellow mountaineer who had perished on Latok I.
Groundbreaking Ascents
Her achievements continued to mount. In 2020, Oleneva received her first Piolet d’Or nomination often called the “Oscar of Climbers” for pioneering a new route on Pik Mechta in Siberia.
That same year, her exceptional skills were recognized with the Crystal Peak award from Risk.ru for her challenging expedition on the South Muya Ridge in Buryatia.
The year 2021 proved equally significant, as Oleneva, alongside Maria Sysoeva and Marina Popova, completed the first ascent of Pik Ostryi (4,818 meters) in Kyrgyzstan’s Orto-Chashma Gorge.
Her accomplishments were further honored with the Grit & Rock award for female mountaineering, enabling her to pursue even more ambitious climbs.
But perhaps what truly distinguished Nadya was her dedication to sharing her passion with others. In 2017, after completing her studies at the Central Russian School of Mountaineering Instructors, she founded the Perm Mountaineering School.
She also co-founded the Mountain Guru climbing school, embodying her belief that mountaineering knowledge should be passed on to future generations.
Even after 18 years in the sport, she maintained that mountaineering’s multifaceted nature always offered new goals and learning opportunities.
Milestones and Honors
Her competitive spirit remained strong throughout her career. In 2022, she reached another milestone by winning the high-altitude technical class at the Russian Mountaineering Federation National Championships.
That same year brought her second Piolet d’Or nomination for an impressive direct ascent of Pik Korolyova’s north face (5,816 meters) in Kyrgyzstan, completed alongside Ratmir Mukhametzyanov and Alexander Parfenov.
Tragic End
Tragically, Oleneva’s remarkable journey came to an end on October 14, 2023, during an expedition to Dhaulagiri, the world’s seventh-highest peak.
At age 38, she was attempting to summit without supplemental oxygen or guide support, accompanied by fellow climbers Roman Abildaev and Rasim Kashapov.
While ascending toward Camp 2 at approximately 6,880 meters, she fell into a crevasse at around 6,100 meters after slipping on steep terrain.
Despite immediate search efforts by her climbing partners and subsequent helicopter rescue attempts, dangerous weather conditions hampered recovery operations.
Nadya Oleneva’s passing sent waves of grief through the mountaineering community, with the Russian Mountaineering Federation leading the expressions of condolence.
Yet her legacy endures not only in the routes she pioneered and the awards she won but in the countless climbers she inspired and mentored.
Her story provides proof of the huge impact that one committed person can have on a community, and her memory continues to motivate those who pursue the same vertical roads she did.
