How Tejan Gurung Honored His Nepali Roots While Making British History
In the world of extreme mountaineering, where oxygen is scarce and danger lurks at every step, few accomplishments match the feat of climbing all fourteen of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks.
For Tejan “TJ” Gurung, a former British soldier of Nepali heritage, this monumental achievement became reality on October 9, 2024, when he stood atop Shishapangma, his final summit in an extraordinary two-year pursuitthat broke records and tested the limits of human unyielding spirit.
From Pokhara to the Peaks
Born in 1995 and raised in Pokhara, Nepal, Tejan spent his early childhood against the backdrop of the Annapurna range. His active nature was evident from the start basketball, football, running he found exercise came naturally and enjoyed pushing his physical boundaries.
This foundation of athleticism would later serve him well in both military service and mountaineering.
“From childhood I was a very active person,” Tejan recalls. “I used to play a lot of sport like basketball and football. I found running and exercise fairly easy and really enjoyed pushing my limits.”
When Tejan was ten years old, his life took a dramatic turn. Following his father’s retirement from the Brigade of Gurkhas, the family relocated to the United Kingdom in 2005. The transition demanded significant adjustment from the young boy.
“There was a big cultural shock, from learning how to speak, to learning how to live,” he says. “It built resilience and a belief that I could fit in anywhere and make friends.”
This endless bloom would become a defining trait as he Journeyed through the challenges ahead.
Following in Military Footsteps
The Gurung family has a proud military tradition, and Tejan felt drawn to follow the same path. In 2014, at age 19, he joined the Royal Engineers, later qualifying for the All-Arms Commando Course an intense program designed to develop mental resolve, physical robustness, and core military skills.
“I come from a family who were in the military. I was very inspired by my father who was a Gurkha. I wanted to join the military like him and give back,” Tejan explains.
His military training proved invaluable for the mountains that awaited him. “The training you conduct in the military was always challenging. You train in the harshest conditions like the arctic, jungle and desert which make you physically and mentally robust,” he says.
It gives you the mindset to not give up, believe in your training and abilities and rely on your team’s expertise. These are all very important when you go into the mountains.
Tejan earned his place in the 24 Commando Regiment within the three Commando Brigades, where he served for six years.
The rigorous training prepared him for demanding environments and operations skills that would transfer directly to high-altitude mountaineering.
The Call of the Mountains
Despite his proximity to the Himalayas during childhood, Tejan’s passion for mountaineering emerged relatively late. In 2017, during a visit to Nepal, what was planned as a trek to Everest Base Camp evolved into something more significant when he climbed Lobuche East, a 6,145-meter peak.
This experience kindled a flame that would grow into an inferno of ambition.
“That’s when I fell in love with the mountains, when I saw the hard work of the sherpa, the guides and porters and the effort and risk they put in to make the climbs and the industry so successful,” Tejan reflects.
“I wanted to be part of the community and work alongside them. I find the Nepal climbing community very inspiring.”
This Fateful moment marked Tejan’s “aha” realization seeing the community of the big mountains made him certain he wanted to be part of that world.
The 14 Peak Challenge Begins
After eight years of military service, Tejan left the armed forces in 2023, ready to pursue his mountaineering ambitions full-time. Before his departure, however, he had already begun his high-altitude journey, scaling his first 8,000-meter peaks Everest on May 27, 2022, followed by Lhotse just one day later on May 28, 2022 alongside renowned mountaineer Nimsdai Purja.
With his military career behind him, Tejan wasted no time returning to his homeland to launch his 14 Peak Project in earnest.
On April 15, 2023, he successfully summited Annapurna, igniting the timer on his record attempt.
His family stood behind his ambitious goal, though not without the natural concerns that come with such dangerous endeavors.
“My family are hugely supportive,” he acknowledges. “But I think it is only natural for parents to worry about their children; especially when their child is planning to do something as extreme as mountaineering.”
Pakistan’s Five in 26 Days
Among Tejan’s many achievements during his 14 Peak Project was establishing a record for the fastest team ascent of Pakistan’s five 8,000-meter peaks in just 26 days.
This intense schedule required exceptional teamwork and determination.
Between July 2 and July 28, 2023, Tejan climbed Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum II, Gasherbrum I, Broad Peak, and finally K2—five of the world’s most formidable mountains in less than a month.
When asked how he and his team managed such an intense schedule, Tejan states the power of positive relationships
“Surrounding yourself with positive people will always help. All the team members had a positive mindset and were determined to achieve the same goal. When times got tough, we all pulled together and supported each other through it.”
Facing the Ultimate Tests
Each of the fourteen 8,000-meter peaks presents unique challenges, but for Tejan, one mountain stood out as particularly grueling.
“Every peak has its own difficulties, and they are all challenging in their own way.
Personally, I found Annapurna was the toughest one both mentally and physically this was due to the difficult weather conditions, which meant that summitting took longer than was scheduled,” he reveals.
How Tejan Gurung Honored His Nepali Roots While Making British History?
The descent from Annapurna became a fight for survival. “On the way down I ran out of oxygen and had HACE (High-altitude cerebral edema) and had frostbite on all my fingers and toes. Only my thumb wasn’t affected. But I knew I had to stay strong, to push myself to get down safely—I think having that military training and mental robustness always helps me at moments like that.”
Another harrowing experience came on Cho Oyu, which Tejan summited on October 2, 2023. “One of the most challenging parts of the 14 peaks was when we got caught in a white out at Cho Oyu, 200m away from the summit without any fixed line. The visibility was 3-4m.”
Drawing on his military skills, Tejan took the lead in the crisis. “I took the lead to find the summit in the harsh conditions. Me and Karma Sherpa headed off to find the summit while remaining in radio contact with rest of the team.
It took us 3 hours to find the summit, but we all summitted safely and got back down. I am very proud of the team and how we worked together to get a great result.”
Like all who pursue extreme goals, Tejan occasionally confronted moments of doubt. “There will always be a time when you feel like giving up, but with physical and mental toughness, those thoughts tend to fade away,” he says. “Remember, everyone is going through pain and failure but only those who keep moving forward will overcome and achieve success.”
Record-Breaking Achievement
With remarkable persistence, Tejan continued ticking off the world’s highest mountains throughout 2023: Makalu (May 23), Kanchenjunga (June 1), the five Pakistani peaks in July, Manaslu (September 17), Dhaulagiri (September 29), and Cho Oyu (October 2).
The final summit, Shishapangma, fell on October 9, 2024, completing Tejan’s extraordinary journey.
At 29 years, 8 months, and 5 days old, he became the youngest British male to complete all fourteen 8,000-meter peaks and the first person from the Gurung community to achieve this feat.
The entire journey took 2 years, 4 months, and 13 days a remarkable pace for such a dangerous and physically demanding challenge.
“It felt amazing to summit,” Tejan says of his final ascent. “However, the summit was not just about a record, but it was about achieving my personal goal and dream. I wanted to see how far I could push my body and my limits.”
The Power of Teamwork
Throughout his mountaineering career, Tejan has emphasized the critical importance of collaboration. His partnership with Nimsdai Purja and other elite climbers has played a significant role in his success.
“Teamwork is always important; It is really vital to create a supportive environment, where everyone on the team is looking after each other. That’s the way to achieve success and celebrate it together,” he asserts.
Tejan now serves as an ambassador for the Nimsdai Store, testing equipment in the world’s harshest environments.
“On the mountain you need good kit, you need to stay warm, dry and safe, so it’s great to be able to help test the Nimsdai Store range. Me and the team live in it day in and day out and it’s good to know it is kit and equipment you can rely on even in the worst conditions the mountain has to throw at you!
The Mountain Yeti’s Vision
Known by the nickname “Mountain Yeti” given to him by his climbing partner Anna “after the load I was carrying on our climb, and from my appearance on the mountains” Tejan has developed a thoughtful perspective on the future of mountaineering in his homeland and globally.
Mountaineering and adventure is getting more popular, both in Nepal and globally. This is good to see; the key thing for me is ensuring that tourism is sustainable and works with the environment and the local communities. Sustainability is key so that all people can continue to enjoy the mountains into the future.
He sees untapped potential in Nepal’s mountains. “There are more than 1,700 peaks in Nepal, but only 419 are open to climb. About 1,300 peaks are yet to be opened or named, we need to promote these peaks so we create more opportunities for the younger generation.”
To aspiring climbers, Tejan offers wisdom beyond his years: “Respect the mountain, respect the culture and respect the global mountaineering community.
It’s not about competition and it’s not about ego; it is about how we move forward and create a sustainable environment together.
One that respects the mountains and the people like the guides and porters who work hard to help climbers on their mountaineering missions.”
Beyond the Summits
Having accomplished his extraordinary goal, Tejan now looks to broader horizons. “To promote mountaineering globally, help individuals to reach their new goals and to promote a sustainable environment and sustainable tourism,” he says of his future plans.
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He also wants to make mountains accessible to everyone, regardless of their climbing abilities. “You don’t have to be a climber to experience the beauty of the mountains. There are more accessible ways for everyone to be involved, from hikes to photography. It’s about finding the place you love. Adventure is not just about the scenic beauty but about the story it tells and the individuals that you meet!”
From a schoolboy in Pokhara to a record-breaking mountaineer with fourteen of the world’s highest summits under his belt, Tejan “TJ” Gurung’s journey embodies the spirit of determination, teamwork, and respect for the mountains that have shaped his life.
As the Mountain Yeti continues his adventures, he invites others to follow along on Instagram (@tejan.g) and perhaps find their own connection to the majestic peaks that have captured his heart.
